THE PANTANAL, BRAZIL'S WETLAND WILDERNESS
and the Atlantic Forests
with Amazon Pre-trip

After a long morning exploring further niches of the plateau we will make our way to the Pantanal. We spend the next five days roaming the Pantanal, staying at three separate locations, each with highlights and habitats all their own. From Cuiabá we drive one and a half hours to Poconé, gateway to the Transpantaneira, a dirt road raised some 10 feet above the surrounding countryside which becomes a viewing platform from which we enjoy the many treasures of the region.

Located on Brazil's southwestern border with Bolivia, the Pantanal is the world's largest wetland, covering 55,000 square miles. Occupying an extremely flat, low-lying basin, the Andean and Planalto rivers that feed the Pantanal flood their banks during the intense November-April rainy season. From May through October the vast wetlands dry out, creating thousands of ponds and channels where fish and other aquatic organisms are concentrated. Slightly elevated "islands" support deciduous, evergreen and palm forests, and gallery forests line the rivers. The Rio Paraguay drains the basin to the south, eventually flowing into the Atlantic at Buenos Aires.

Our first two nights will be at Pouso Alegre, a 30,000 acre ranch with perhaps the most rewarding nature viewing in all the Pantanal. Hyacinth Macaws roost above our cabins and nest on the grounds. Greater Rheas stroll by the front lawn and Giant Anteaters have been found on many visits. Over 100 species of birds have been seen from the front porch. The forests on the farm are home to 3 species of primates, Crab-eating Fox and Coati.

The next two nights at Hotel Santa Tereza are devoted to exploring the habitats around and on the Pixiam River, which is home to one of South America's rarest mammals, the Giant River Otter. Other beauties are the Helmeted Manakin, Agami Heron, Pygmy Kingfisher, Anhinga and the reclusive Sungrebe.

Our last night we lodge at the Hotel Porto Jofre, the southernmost point of the Transpantaneira. This region has the highest incidence of feline sightings in the Americas, and we will search for the elusive Jaguar and Ocelot during our night drives as well as along the Cuiabá River.

The Pantanal is the best place in South America to see a wide variety of large animals. Open spaces facilitate the spotting of animals such as the rare Marsh Deer, Giant Anteater, Capybara,Black Howler Monkey, Yellow Anaconda and even Jaguar. While the mammals are impressive, it is the amazing abundance of birds for which the Pantanal is justly famous. Common species include Jabiru, Maguari and Wood Storks, Great and Snowy Egrets, numerous herons, five species of ibis, Roseate Spoonbills, four species of kingfishers, Snail Kite, Black-collared and Roadside Hawks, parrots, parakeets and macaws. Some of the regional specialties are Hyacinth Macaw, Yellow-billed Cardinal, Buff-bellied Hermit, Gilded Hummingbird, Great Rufous Woodcreeper, Toco Toucan, Plumbeous Ibis, Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher, Unicolored and Scarlet-headed Blackbirds, Chaco Chachalaca, Barefaced Curassow, Rufous Cachalote, Mato Grosso Antbird and many, many others.

For three more days we will explore the many beautiful rainforest and streamside trails of Itatiaia. One day we'll drive to the 7,000 foot alpine zone for cool open walks in view of the crags.

Brazil's Atlantic forests were thriving for 20 million years before the Andes rose from a flat continent and the Amazon began to flow east. Isolated from other wet forests by the dry Cerrado grasslands inland, thousands of endemic plants and animals have evolved in the Atlantic forests. Of the 19 primate species and subspecies that occur here, 17 are endemic, and close to 160 bird species are endemic. Around 1,000 of Brazil's 2,300 known orchid species are found here, although a thorough inventory has yet to be completed. The forests of southeastern Brazil are often likened to those of Madagascar due to the extent, isolation, degree of endemism, and endangerment. Over 95% of the original forests are gone and only isolated patches remain. Many of the world's most striking creatures live a precarious existence in a series of spectacular parks and reserves.

Itatiaia National Park is Brazil's oldest, established in 1937. Rich Atlantic coastal rainforest grows on the lower slopes, and this is where our hotel is situated. Moving up the mountains, the vegetation changes, and at around 5,500 feet a very different flora is habitat to an almost complete change of fauna. Itatiaia is the most famous reserve in the Atlantic forest region. Just 70 miles from the sea, it is easily accessible from Rio de Janeiro. The mountain and rainforest scenery is superb. Trails wind up the mountainside and beside rivers and streams. There are many waterfalls, and the vegetation is particularly luxuriant, with abundant flowers and gaudy butterflies. In the Brazilian Alpine Zone at the summit of the mountains are strange plants in tall grasslands. Towering above are the impressive 9,000 foot granitic Black Needles. Itatiaia provides a last stronghold for many of Brazil's endangered endemic birds. Specialties of the park include Spot-billed and Saffron Toucanets, Green-headed, Gilt-edged, and Brassy-breasted Tanagers, Mantled Hawk, Plovercrest, Surucua Trogon, Blond-crested Woodpecker, Itatiaia Spinetail, Slaty Bristlefront, Giant and Large-tailed Antshrikes, Swallow-tailed, and Black-and-Gold Cotingas, White-collared Foliage-gleaner, Black-billed Scythebill, Rufous-tailed, Scaled, Ochre-rumped, Dusky-tailed, Ferruginous and Bertonis's Antbirds, Shear-tailed Gray-Tyrant and a fabulous variety of hummingbirds.

PRE-TRIP TO THE AMAZON
AUGUST 26 -September 1, 2008

The Brazilian Amazon is immense. A new lodge in the Southern Highlands is widely regarded as the most diverse, beautiful and pleasant accommodation in the region. Numerous trails and canoe routes on streams and lakes give visitors good opportunities to view Tapir, Giant Otter, monkeys, and several macaws. Over 570 bird species have been recorded.

This morning a two hour flight due north will take us to Alta Floresta at the southern frontier of the incomparable Amazon forest. Here we board a boat for the two hour trip to Rio Cristalina Lodge. These days we explore this Amazonian paradise, rated by many as the finest wilderness-rainforest with accommodations anywhere. Numerous trails and navigable waterways allow access to varied habitats. Over 570 bird species have been noted, one of the highest totals anywhere, including area specialties like Red-throated Piping Guan, Dark-winged Trumpeter and White-browed Hawk. Brazilian Tapir and Giant Otter are often seen from the rivers, as are Razor-billed and Bare-faced Curassows. A tower 150 feet tall, piercing the canopy, offers the unforgettable experience of viewing the Amazon from above the canopy. Spangled Cotingas, Bare-necked Fruitcrows, Curl-crested Araçaris, and White-whiskered Spider Monkeys can be observed at eye-level. Brilliant toucans, tanagers, jacamars, barbets, parrots and macaws are diversely represented. We'll search out army ant swarms with their attendant antbirds, watch for fruiting trees, spy several monkey species, view large Caimans and swim in beautiful rivers.

Amazonia, the vast drainage basin of the Amazon, covers half of Brazil and large portions of seven other South American countries. The Amazon is by far the largest of all rivers, and several of its tributaries are among the world's top ten rivers in size. Even here, the Xingu and Teles Pires, smaller rivers, are effective barriers to the movement of many organisms, causing speciation and increasing the staggering diversity of Amazonia. Amazon rainforest is broadly divided into three types: the permanently flooded Igapó, the seasonally flooded Varzea, and the upland Terra Firme. Each forest supports different plants and animals; there are some 700 species of trees alone in the Alta Floresta area.